Sunday, May 13, 2007

The Thom Browne Conundrum





While I like his designs, I fail to see what's revolutionary about them. From a menswear perspective, are these not repros of the late 50s-60s "Ivy meets Roman" aesthetic? Check out Lee Marvin in The Killers or Point Blank, the 500-odd Reid Miles designed, Francis Wolff photographed album covers of Blue Note or KoB-era Miles Davis – They're all "Thom Browne" in flashier colours.

If that's too distant in the past for you, check out the Two Tone and Mod '79 subcultures, the covers of The Specials or The Jam. From the world of fashion, it's all early 90s Jil Sander, Kartherine Hammnet, G Fujiwara, mid 90s Prada or even his contemporaries like Slimane or Raf Simons. Too much column space is wasted on him already when more innovative and potentially more influential designers are given scant space - is it because he's an American?

On a related note, for every article of Browne you read, it's unnerving to know that somewhere, clothing fascists out there (mainly Americans) would be starting up numerous threads in dogmatist/conservative "men's style*" forums, equating his designs with A) Pee Wee Herman, B) Anti American, C) Gay, D) Al Qaeda, E) Anti "Real-sized People"

www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=35728
www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69070
www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51308
www.getdressedbest.blogspot.com/2006/04/thom-browne.html

If you don't like the designs DON'T BUY EM, why get all hot under your spread collar?

*Don't you DARE call them fashion sites, fashion are for "queers".

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